Desolations and Consolations

Yesterday (Day 10), I walked thirty-one kilometers (!), which is about twenty miles.  I walked from Logrono to Najera.  The way was filled with beautiful vineyards. These grapes were beautiful purplish-blue in color and their leaves were a vibrant green. They were delicious to eat too.

Despite the beauty of the countryside, the afternoon was hot and the gravelly pavement under my feet was hard.  It was challenging to walk such a long distance.  I have a new blister on my right great toe, just next to the one that has finally begun to heal.  The blister on my left heel is still ripe and juicy - just like the grapes!!  And now I have a hotspot on the bottom of another toe.  As I walked on and on and on, I became especially tired, my pack weighed down more, and the sun beat down with a searing heat.  Flies were buzzing around and gnat-like bugs were flying all around my head, following me as I walked. To top it off, the smell of manure filled my nostrils. 

Gratefully, my arrival at the hostel was worth the journey.  It was a lovely "refugio" nestled in a canyon of brick red rock, much like in New Mexico.  The walls were painted a bright color and the rooms were clean with nice pictures and comfortable furniture.  One of the men, a Chinese young man named Philip from Germany (go figure!), is leaving today, so he bought some goodies, and we had a fun "wine and cheese" party in the evening before dinner.  (I mostly had cheese! :)  The day ended on a good note, celebrating Philip´s Camino experience and the gift of friendship. 

 

Can you see the crosses in the fence?  En route to Najera, this area near a highway seems bleak and desolate.  Hundreds of pilgrims have made crosses using sticks, roots and branches and have fed them into the chicken wire fence to hang over the highway.  It is a meaningful gesture, remembering the desolations of Christ and also the hope of resurrection.