Today, I walked through Pamplona, the city where the running of the bulls is held. All the businesses were holding a very serious strike due to social oppression from the government in Madrid. (You may have heard about the economic meltdown here in the news.) I saw a large demonstration with several thousand people marching through the city. In fact, at times I felt like a salmon swimming upstream, trying to get through the marchers who were walking along the camino path. As a result of the strike, few businesses were open, including cafes. My friend and I were quite fortunate to learn from another pilgrim about a cafe that had a little something to eat. I was quite a sight, leaving with long, brown baquettes sticking out of my backpack!
Pamplona is the city where Ernest Hemingway lived while he wrote the book, The Son Also Rises. There is a boulevard in the city named after him as well as a large statue of him. There is a large citadel in the city which was first built by the Romans at the end of the first century. Since then, it has expanded, but it is still amazing to see infrastructure that was built so long ago.
I am staying SW of the city in a relatively nice hostel. It has hot water, internet and the madame who runs the place has even separated the men from the women in the dorms...This seems to be a first!! Of course, the dorms don´t have heat, and the weather has gotten nippy, so I will snuggle deep in my sleeping bag tonight (By the way, one friend wrote and asked if I am sleeping in the same beds with the men...smile...rest assured that that is NOT the case!)
Several of you have asked about the phlebitis in my arm. It is improving! I do, however, have a blister and some "hot spots" on my toes. Perhaps my biggest physical challenge now is my knees. I walked seventeen miles yesterday (27.4 kms) and another thirteen miles (20.9 kms) today. It really doesn´t sound like that much, but when you factor in the terrain (hilly, gravel, mudpuddles, streams, pavement and sand), the wind, and the cumulative effect of walking day after day, it is challenging. Today, after we had lunch, I was limping around and could hardly extend my knees. I am some better now, thanks to Aleve (naproxen sodium) and ibuprofen! Tomorrow, I will be walking past the windmills (wind turbines) that are in the movie, "The Way". They are quite amazing, and I can even see them along the horizon in the far distance.
Pamplona is the city where Ernest Hemingway lived while he wrote the book, The Son Also Rises. There is a boulevard in the city named after him as well as a large statue of him. There is a large citadel in the city which was first built by the Romans at the end of the first century. Since then, it has expanded, but it is still amazing to see infrastructure that was built so long ago.
I am staying SW of the city in a relatively nice hostel. It has hot water, internet and the madame who runs the place has even separated the men from the women in the dorms...This seems to be a first!! Of course, the dorms don´t have heat, and the weather has gotten nippy, so I will snuggle deep in my sleeping bag tonight (By the way, one friend wrote and asked if I am sleeping in the same beds with the men...smile...rest assured that that is NOT the case!)
Several of you have asked about the phlebitis in my arm. It is improving! I do, however, have a blister and some "hot spots" on my toes. Perhaps my biggest physical challenge now is my knees. I walked seventeen miles yesterday (27.4 kms) and another thirteen miles (20.9 kms) today. It really doesn´t sound like that much, but when you factor in the terrain (hilly, gravel, mudpuddles, streams, pavement and sand), the wind, and the cumulative effect of walking day after day, it is challenging. Today, after we had lunch, I was limping around and could hardly extend my knees. I am some better now, thanks to Aleve (naproxen sodium) and ibuprofen! Tomorrow, I will be walking past the windmills (wind turbines) that are in the movie, "The Way". They are quite amazing, and I can even see them along the horizon in the far distance.
Know that my heart stays close to you all. Even when I am walking with others, I have much time walking before sunup, when all is quiet and peaceful, to intercede on behalf of you. In particular, today, I would like to THANK GOD for Ellis Domenech, the son of my dear friends, Jeanne and Doug, who has just completed a tour of duty in Afghanistan and is now safely en route to the USA from Afghanistan.
Lastly, please keep me in your prayers. I am now in transition...some of my friends are now behind me and some are now ahead of me...Pray that God will keep my body healthy, will continue to encourage my spirit, and now in this next day of solitude, give me continued peace in my heart. Pray also that God will lead me to others who can be companions along the Way. The flow of people in and out of one´s life is part of the experience. But it comes with its own sadness as you separate along the trek. Thank you, with love to you all.
Martha,
ReplyDeleteJust want you to know how much I am enjoying your posts. Mama told me about your journey and I signed up to get the emails. I am praying for you and keeping you in my thoughts. Travel safe!
Dianne Jenkins
Martha,
ReplyDeleteCongratulations on reaching Pamplona! Hiking the Camino four years ago, the walk from there to Estella was a favorite part for me--particularly, the ridge with the windmills and the famous statue of pilgrims. The monastery in Roncesvalles also was a welcome stop after hiking through the fog and rain over the Pyrenees--I'm glad you enjoyed it too. You're in Erin's and my thoughts and prayers on this journey. Enjoy!!!