Photos between Estella and Los Argos (Day 8)

Outside the city of Estella

At the wine fountain in Estella

En route from Estella to Los Argos

A new friend along the Way...He´s from Georgia!

Still walking to Los Argos

Photos along the Way

These photos are from September 26-28.  I traveled through Pamplona, Cizure Menor, crossed Alto del Perdon, and into Puente La Reina.  This is in the Navarre region of Spain.  Each region has great pride...I guess it´s comparable to Carolina versus Duke (at least during basketball season! :)  These photos are not in order, but I am thrilled to have posted them here and I even figured out how to put labels! 

Leaving Pamplona

Windmills (Wind Turbines) on Alto del Perdon (outside a village called Cizure Menor)

Monument to Pilgrims on Alto del Perdon

I think this speaks for itself! :)

In Pamplona

Ups and Downs

This morning, before sunrise, I started out and the sky was so beautiful.  I hiked past the windmills (turbines) that are featured in the movie, " The Way."  I got a lot of photos from various distances to the windmills...beautiful rolling hills, church bell towers, fields with harvested wheat.  I hope to post the photos soon.

Today, there were several more very steep inclines, one was from 440 to 790 meters above sea level.  The real challenge here was walking DOWN the hill.  It was all gravel, rocks, and even some slate-like slippery stretches of ground. The downward descent was for over two miles! My knees were giving me a hard time, so I walked downhill BACKWARDS(!!), almost the whole way(!), using my walking sticks to keep me from falling.  I prayed a lot too!!  (I had learned from someone here that walking down hill backwards helps the knees. This was definitely the case for me.

A funny thing:  When I arrived at my hostel, later than usual, I signed up for the nicer rooms, only six beds in one room...Well, that was definitely the wrong move!!  As time went on, the whole room, a small room, without any windows, filled up with all men!!  Now, if these men had looked like Paul Newman in his younger days, I would have been fine.  Alas, that was not the case.  (I would have been sharing a bathroom with them all too, AND I can only imagine how loud the snoring would have been!!)  So, I went upstairs and got the receptionist to move me to the lower priced room, which is actually much nicer and has a private bath for ladies.  I am now very relieved and happy to be with the indigents in the lower priced room of the hostel! (Smile!)

Pamplona

Today, I walked through Pamplona, the city where the running of the bulls is held.  All the businesses were holding a very serious strike due to social oppression from the government in Madrid.  (You may have heard about the economic meltdown here in the news.)  I saw a large demonstration with several thousand people marching through the city.   In fact, at times I felt like a salmon swimming upstream, trying to get through the marchers who were walking along the camino path.  As a result of the strike, few businesses were open, including cafes. My friend and I were quite fortunate to learn from another pilgrim about a cafe that had a little something to eat.  I was quite a sight, leaving with long, brown baquettes sticking out of my backpack!

Pamplona is the city where Ernest Hemingway lived while he wrote the book, The Son Also Rises.  There is a boulevard in the city named after him as well as a large statue of him.  There is a large citadel in the city which was first built by the Romans at the end of the first century.  Since then, it has expanded, but it is still amazing to see infrastructure that was built so long ago.

I am staying SW of the city in a relatively nice hostel.  It has hot water, internet and the madame who runs the place has even separated the men from the women in the dorms...This seems to be a first!!  Of course, the dorms don´t have heat, and the weather has gotten nippy, so I will snuggle deep in my sleeping bag tonight  (By the way, one friend wrote and asked if I am sleeping in the same beds with the men...smile...rest assured that that is NOT the case!)

Several of you have asked about the phlebitis in my arm.  It is improving!  I do, however, have a blister and some "hot spots" on my toes.  Perhaps my biggest physical challenge now is my knees. I walked seventeen miles yesterday (27.4 kms) and another thirteen miles (20.9 kms) today.  It really doesn´t sound like that much, but when you factor in the terrain (hilly, gravel, mudpuddles, streams, pavement and sand), the wind, and the cumulative effect of walking day after day, it is challenging.  Today, after we had lunch, I was limping around and could hardly extend my knees.  I am some better now, thanks to Aleve (naproxen sodium) and ibuprofen!  Tomorrow, I will be walking past the windmills (wind turbines) that are in the movie, "The Way".  They are quite amazing, and I can even see them along the horizon in the far distance.

Know that my heart stays close to you all.  Even when I am walking with others, I have much time walking before sunup, when all is quiet and peaceful, to intercede on behalf of you. In particular, today, I would like to THANK GOD for Ellis Domenech, the son of my dear friends, Jeanne and Doug, who has just completed a tour of duty in Afghanistan and is now safely en route to the USA from Afghanistan. 

Lastly, please keep me in your prayers.  I am now in transition...some of my friends are now behind me and some are now ahead of me...Pray that God will keep my body healthy, will continue to encourage my spirit, and now in this next day of solitude, give me continued peace in my heart.  Pray also that God will lead me to others who can be companions along the Way.  The flow of people in and out of one´s life is part of the experience. But it comes with its own sadness as you separate along the trek.  Thank you, with love to you all.


  

Gratitude

I am very grateful for your prayers and words of support.  I have posted three photos of me hiking over the Pyrenees.  A man here helped but I am not sure if I will ever figure out how to post more photos, but at least you get an idea.  The last two days have gone really well.  Yes, it has been a VERY challenging hike.  But it has also been amazing how ¨divine appointments¨ have provided support, encouragement and even direction at various moments along the Way.  Yesterday, I met a kind couple from Indiana who helped me tremendously.  I was very tired (huffing and puffing tired) when we met and our conversation throughout the rest of the trail made it SO much easier to complete.  Today, I left the hostel at 7:35am and arrived in Roncevalles, a tiny town at the foothills of the Pyrenees, at 1:15pm. I walked with a doctor from Maine who is now working with the CDC in Botswana.  Again, having the companionship made the climb so much easier. And just when we were about to take the wrong path, a man I have met from Norway showed up from behind us and was able to correct our wrong decision.  In fact, this same man gave me many tips regarding which towns or villages to stay in (versus being in large cities where the hostels are less personal) and even some of the good hostels.

Last night, I stayed in Orisson, only eight kms up the path but after a very strenuous climb.  I had dinner at a table with twenty-two other pilgrims and it was delightful.  Sitting near me were people from Sweden, Switzerland, Australia, Norway, Germany, and France.  The food was good and the company was fun and festive...very sweet indeed, just like in the movie, "The Way".  Tonight, I am sleeping at a monastery in Roncevalles, and my bunk mate is from Peru but now lives in South Africa.  Really amazing that the four people in my cubicle tonight are me (Rwanda), Dove (South Africa) and Andy (Botswana).  (By the way, the men and women sleep in the same rooms and even in the same bunks!)  This is not for the fainthearted OR for the overly modest!  And yes, my ear plugs did come in handy last night!

So much to share, but suffice it to say that the first two days have been magnificent.  I am so thankful for your prayers and ask you to remain praying.  (Logistical note:  If you don´t want to post a public comment on this blog, you are welcome to write to my email address.  I am making a valiant effort to check email whenever I can get to a computer. I may not be able to respond to all emails, but it is very special to hear from you all and to receive your support and love.)  All for now, with love, Martha 

Climbing and Crossing the Pyrenees

Baggage

Hello friends.  I am writing this on a computer with a French keyboard.  This means that all the letters on the keyboard are in different places!!

I arrived in Paris yesterday.  This morning, I was out by 4:30am to head to the airport.  I flew to Biarritz, took a bus ride to Bayonne, and then took a train to St. Jean Pied de Port.  St. Jean is the official beginning of the Way!  I got my pilgrim passport stamped at the tourist office; strolled around the town, which is a lovely quaint villa nestled in the rolling hills of the Pyrenees.  After grabbing a bite to eat, i started the trek to St. Michel, where I am staying for the night.

I presently have two challenges.  First, I am afraid I have phlebitis in my right forearm.  Just before I departed to come, I had an MRI.  The results were fine.  However, they had to insert dye through an IV to perform the test.  I now have a very sore forearm, with swelling and redness.  The swelling seems to be floating down my arm along my artery.  Would you please pray that the dye residue begins to be absorbed and that the pain, redness and swelling go away?  Thank you.

Secondly, I have a problem with my backpack.  It weighs too much!  I hear some of you laughing.  Now, I take full responsibility...the things in my pack didnt just jump in there on their own volition!  I have never been a light packer.  My motto has always been, "If it fits, take it...if it doesnt fit, get another bag!" (smile!) Well, that philosophy doesnt work here!

Today, I spent hours combing through every thing in my pack, trying to figure out what to get rid of.  You wouldnt believe all that I have relinquished, given away, thrown away or just left in places where someone might find and rejoice in his/her good fortune!

I could make a wonderful analogy just now about getting rid of the baggage in our lives...but I am going to refrain from doing that.  I simply need your prayers and Gods wisdom.  The path that starts tomorrow is almost straight up...for miles.  This is one of the hardest legs of the journey, yet it is at the very beginning.  Please pray for me, for stamina (today it got very hot!), perseverance, fortitude and the ability to make this climb.  I am admittedly scared, but trying to TRUST in Gods provision and help.  I have decided that I will take two days to do this sixteen mile leg of the journey.  So, please keep your prayers coming.  Remember the story of the paralytic I mentioned in my previous post?  I need you, my dear friends, walking with me.  I will let you know how it goes.  Tomorrow, I truly take up my mat and START WALKING!

The Paralytic

In forty-eight hours, I will be on a flight heading to Paris, France en route to begin my pilgrimage on the Camino de Santiago.  I was just looking back at some of my writing when I served as a missionary in Rwanda for almost six years.  I discovered this "broadcast report" and felt moved to post it here.  I ask you to pray that, just as God healed the paralytic man through the faithful intervention of the man's friends, that you, my friends, will also intervene in prayer for me during this time of "walking." Here's what I wrote:

            I have recently been pondering the story from Mark 2:1-12 where Jesus heals the paralytic.  Most of you are familiar with the story.  Jesus is staying at Simon Peter’s home in Capernaum, and all the neighbors have gathered to see Him and hear what He has to say.  Four men approach the home carrying a paralyzed man on a mat.  It is impossible for them to squeeze him through the large crowd that presses up against the door and into the house.  The four men could have become discouraged and taken their friend back to his own home.  But what do they do?  They climb up to the roof and begin to dig a sizable hole through the packed clay roof supported by wood beams and branches!  Then, they gently lower their paralyzed friend down through the hole into the presence of Jesus.

            With the possible exception of the packed clay roof, this story seems to have little to do with life here in Rwanda.  But, for me, this story is very significant.  Over three years ago, as I was preparing to come to Rwanda, I was struggling to know whether I should seek sponsorship from a traditional mission-sending organization or if I should try some alternative means.

One evening, just before dusk as the slanting rays of the sun were sliding down below the horizon, I was lying on my bed crying out to the Lord about this concern.  Suddenly, it seemed that the Lord spoke very clearly to me – not with words – but with an overwhelming impression.  I clearly understood, “I am like the paralyzed man.  I am prepared to start walking, and even believe that God is calling me to walk, but I seem to be paralyzed and can’t get moving!”

            Two days later, I met with some friends to pray together about my concerns.  I had not mentioned this experience to them.  Before we began to pray, one friend shared, “Martha, you are like the paralyzed man who was lowered down through the roof by his friends.  Like the paralytic’s friends, we are here to pray for you and to help you come into the presence of Jesus.”  At that moment, I marveled that God had given the same biblical impression to both me and my friend!

            Recently, I have been pondering this same story from Mark chapter 2.  Of course, I have not been paralyzed physically, but there have been times when I have felt paralyzed spiritually.  This has been a year of transitions, and for me, transitions are hard.  It is tempting to cling to my “mat” – to grasp tightly to things that are familiar to me (but not necessarily good for me) or even to nurse old wounds that prevent me from stepping out of my comfort zones.

Instead, God has been challenging me to take up my mat and to begin to walk in newness of life.  And He is doing this in a way that is similar to this story about the paralyzed man.  First, like this man, who had a committed group of friends to help him come into the presence of Jesus, I have been surrounded by many people who have written encouraging emails to me, who have prayed for me, who have sent boxes of delicious – but inaccessible – foods to me!  My dad even sent pancake mix and syrup to me and a friend sent a thumbnail drive to help me save my computer data.  Another friend helped me locate a new company for health insurance which is much cheaper and more comprehensive than my previous insurance (and much easier to get too!)  These sound like small things, and perhaps they are.  But, that is not the point.  The point is that God has surrounded me with loving friends and family who have “carried” me when I felt that I was incapable of walking myself.

Interestingly, when Jesus had just raised Lazarus from the dead, He turned to the mourners gathered at the tomb and said, “You take off his grave clothes” (John 11:44).  Jesus could have done it alone, but he chose to have Lazarus’ friends do it instead.  In the same way, many of you have been there for me and I am grateful to you.

Secondly, just as Jesus said to the paralytic, I have heard Him say to me, “Your sins are forgiven” (v.5).  While my friends have rallied around me with prayers, letters and gifts, Jesus has been meeting my deepest need - to know His love and forgiveness.  In Psalm 32, the psalmist exclaims, “Blessed is he whose transgressions are forgiven, whose sins are covered…When I kept silent, my bones wasted away through my groaning all day long…Then I acknowledged my sin to you and did not cover up my iniquity…And you forgave the guilt of my sin.”

Just before Jesus forgives this man’s sins, Mark writes, “When Jesus saw their faith…”  The text note for verse 5 implies that Jesus saw not only the bold faith of the friends, but also the faith of the paralytic man himself.  This is comforting to me…that Jesus doesn’t see a sinner (i.e., me) who seems to be a lost cause, but instead sees a person of faith who simply needs an encouraging touch by the Savior.

Thirdly, Jesus says to the man, “I tell you, get up, take your mat, and go home.”  For me, these words, “go home” do not only mean to go to one’s house.  They also mean “Go to the place of spiritual security where you first knew the love of your Father.  Go to the place where you first entered into the freedom and forgiveness of God and remember from whence you have come.”

In the same way, Jesus tells the paralytic to go home.  He tells him to return to the place when he knew God’s greatest blessing.  And so, the man stands up and rejoices to find that he can not only walk, but that he can walk with renewed freedom and joy!  His friends are rejoicing with him, his sins are forgiven, and his body is now freed from the bondage of sin and death.

Learning these truths has been significant for me, and I wanted to share them with you.  Like the paralytic, God has been teaching me how to walk again…to “walk in truth” (III John v. 4); to “walk in obedience” (II John v. 6); to “walk in the light” (I John 1:7); and to walk in love” (II John v.6).

And now, years after writing these words, and as I prepare to walk the "Camino," may I - like the paralytic and with the faithful intercession of my friends - take up my mat (or should I say, "my backpack") and also walk in truth, obedience, light and love.  

Welcome

My dear friends, I don’t know much about blogs, but I am starting one now.  Why you may ask?  Beginning this Thursday, September 20, 2012, I am flying to France to begin a pilgrimage in France and mostly Spain called “The Way of Saint James,” or in Spanish, “ Camino de Santiago”.

The “Camino” (for short) is a long four hundred ninety mile road that ends at the (supposed) burial site of St. James the Apostle.  This is St. James, the brother of the Apostle John.  These brothers were often called “Sons of Thunder.”

It will take a little over forty days (God willing) for me to walk the entire length of the Camino - praying, singing, studying, and memorizing scripture as I go.  This journey is not to sow my wild oats or to add to my ever-expanding list of adventures.  In fact, Dr. Timothy Keller says that there is a difference between an adventure and a quest.  An “adventure” is often an exciting and remarkable experience that frequently involves risk.  A “quest” can also involve great risk and it may also include exciting experiences.  But a quest is deeper than that.  It is a search or pursuit made in order to obtain something. For various reasons, the individual on the quest is moving towards a goal. When he reaches that goal, or even if he does not, he is never the same for having taken the risk and having taken the journey.

In the last four years, I have experienced a lot of loss and have grieved much over these losses.  This quest, or as I will share more about later, “pilgrimage,” is my way of seeking the Lord, of getting my head clear, of challenging my body, and of placing myself along a path to hear and see the Lord and his creation with renewed ears and eyes.  

My prayer is that, spiritually, mentally, emotionally, I will be a different person when I return.  Now, obviously, I will still be the Martha that many of you know.  I will still love my Rwandese friends; I will still pull for the UNC Tarheels; I will still have a crazy sense of humor; and unfortunately, I will still love Oreos (maybe).  Those things won’t change.  But I hope that, deep down, my priorities will be realigned and that my hope in the Lord and for his purpose in my life will be rekindled.

I will be staying at hostels along the trail, often called “aubergues” or “refugios” or even “hospitales”.  I will eat at small restaurants and storefront diners along the road.  And I will be carrying all of my belongings in a backpack.  Because of this, I will not take my computer (or as one friend inquired, my scales! J)  I will try to stop along the way and write some of my thoughts and experiences at Internet cafes, etc.  My writing will probably not be as polished as I might like, due to the lack of time or energy when I am writing.  But I hope you, my friends, and even you who do not know me well, will enjoy the journey with me. I hope you will rejoice and weep with me too.  More than anything, I cherish your prayers.  I want to hear the Lord, to fall more in love with Christ, to relinquish my own agenda and to move along (and forward) with eager expectations, not only to start and complete this journey, but to embrace the continued journey that God has for me when I return home.  I invite you to join me in this.